I’m going to be the dissenter here and say that you probably don’t need to do anything unless it starts to get worse. If you want to make it pretty then yeah, re-season it. But functionally it’s probably fine.

The seasoning on a cast iron pan is there for two basic reasons:

1. Inhibit rust

2. Make the surface less sticky

If you start to see rust, or it’s annoying because food keeps getting stuck - then think about re-seasoning. Maybe if you semi regularly use it to cook acidic food like tomato sauces. If it doesn’t bother you when you’re cooking it’s fine. Especially if you leave them in the oven all the time, where they might get stuff dripped on and then baked on.

Unfortunately you aren’t really cooking your eggs hot enough to season the pan. Feel free to try though. Probably putting oil on it does nothing. Best case it works, and worst case a meteor hits the earth killing all life and your pan is mildly sticky.

If you do decide to re-season I recently discovered that Dawn Powerwash (the real one not the weird recipe you can get online) does surprisingly well at stripping old seasoning.

Yeah, I think the ones my friends have are about that size. I wound up with the next size up and it’s just obnoxiously large so I try to warn people, lol.

On the other side of the coin, large electric pressure cookers get kind of enormous. If you use your immersion circulator to do large batches, like 30 individual cheesecakes for a party or large cuts of meat, you’ll run out of room very quickly, which means batches which would take forever. Whereas an immersion circulator can be stuck in a cooler or even the bathtub and cook a lot of food at once. A small pressure cooker and an immersion circulator is a lot less space than a large pressure cooker. If you only ever cook for a few people a combo unit would be fine, but I find myself pulling out the immersion circulator much more often for events.

I say this as someone who bought a large pressure cooker because it was a really good deal and now struggles to store it, lol.

The 18-150 is a super zoom, so it gives up some image quality to give you everything in one lens. It goes from reasonably wide to very telephoto in one swoop. Optically, that much zoom means they have to make compromises somewhere, so it’s not the sharpest lens, and at the 150 end it’s not exactly what I would consider bright - but most people only use that outside in the daytime when it doesn’t matter. They’re really popular for people on vacation or who want very little kit, and if you’re just posting pictures to the web you probably won’t notice the flaws.

If you’re buying used damage is pretty much always a concern unless you’re buying from a reputable used dealer who has checked out the lens for you. Especially since you’re a beginner thats probably your best opinion. If you’re buying personally you’ll want to inspect the lens thoroughly for issues, and it’s best if you can meet in person and try the lens on your own camera and look for flaws in any images you shoot. If you’re buying online just make sure they have a good return policy and that they seem to honor it.

Small list:

• Make sure it zooms smoothly, and if you hold it with the lens pointing down the zoom doesn’t creep from where you left it. (Or doesn’t do it too bad, some lenses do that brand new)
• Make sure the focus motors work ok - there’s a lot of variance in how different motors sound, so finding a review with audio of them can be helpful.
• Make sure the aperture works properly.
• Make sure the filter threads are ok, as well as any hood bayonets.
• Make sure the mount is ok, all the contacts are ok, and it communicated with your camera properly.
• If the lens is supposed to have seals make sure they’re in place and in ok shape. If they aren’t check if they’re user replaceable, and negotiate accordingly.
• Make sure the front and back lens elements are clear and free of scratches. Sometimes there can be tiny minor scratches in the coatings that are only visible in some light, they often don’t have a large impact on image quality but negotiate accordingly.
• When you look down the lens it should be clear and clean. If you see any cloudy areas or mold run away.
• Find a better list than this online, there has to be one this is just the basics.

With all that said, I have a few lenses that I’ve bought knowing they have issues and like 90% of the time it’s hard to notice in actual photos.

Honestly the best advice is to just get out there with something and start learning. Don’t spend too much money and don’t commit until you know what you want.

That sounds like a job for the kit lens. The r50 should come in a kit with a 18-45, which is worth using for a while. If you have to buy something the 18-150 is a tad on the slow side (f stops wise, not actual speed) but it should be able to do most things reasonably well, and it should fit in your price bracket. You could get a wide and a longer macro, but you’d be looking at the real cheap prime manual focus lenses (which I like, but they’re not exactly beginner friendly).

It’s really worth really double checking if you can find a used one though. Kit lenses are incredibly common, and way cheaper on the used market because of it. They’re a great starting point until you have enough experience to know what you really want, and a couple hundred USD can go a long way toward something like a fast portrait prime lens or whatever you decide on.

But did they mean Quettabytes or Quebibytes? Because the difference is only around 250 000 times the size of the Internet.

As far as I remember it isn’t, it’s just a named specific large number, like Avogadro’s number or Graham’s number.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metric_prefix

In case you wondered where they came in the list like I immediately did:

• quetta Q 10^30
• ronna R 10^27
• yotta Y 10^24
• zetta Z 10^21
• exa E 10^18
• peta P 10^15
• tera T 10^12
• giga G 10^9
• mega M 10^6
• kilo k 10^3
• hecto h 10^2
• deca da 10^1
• ——
• deci d 10^−1
• centi c 10^−2
• milli m 10^−3
• micro μ 10^−6
• nano n 10^−9
• pico p 10^−12
• femto f 10^p−15
• atto a 10^−18
• zepto z 10^−21
• yocto y 10^−24
• ronto r 10^−27
• quecto q 10^−30

That’s basically what computers do.

The rule is a holdover from monospaced type like from a typewriter. On a computer with a decent font and renderer it will generally make the spacing a little larger than an in-between-words space, but not a ton like double spacing would. Basically typesetting is way more complicated than people realize but since we solved most of the problems computers have with it in like, the 70s, most people don’t tend to realize it unless they have design training.

The follow up post is significantly more interesting to me, as it basically mirrors the comment section.

https://www.cultofpedagogy.com/price-of-snark/

Having buttons.