My 4100 is a “newer” model and I’m happy to report that it was openable by screwing a bolt into the charging hole. But annoyed to report I had to do that in the first place after <3 years due to water ingress.

Correct: newer models have no screw.

The whole reason I had to open mine up is that water got inside, and I don’t even use it in the shower. I think they removed the screw to either cut costs or make it more difficult to repair.

My previous one (an older model, which had a screw in the bottom) lasted a long time. This newer “sealed” one got water inside within 2-3 years and had no screw. Fortunately it seems that opening it up and cleaning the circuit board helped.

Interestingly, the supports could even dissolve in the main liquid ingredient of the original resin, like a cube of ice in water. This means that the material used to print structural supports could be continuously recycled: Once a printed structure’s supporting material dissolves, that mixture can be blended directly back into fresh resin and used to print the next set of parts — along with their dissolvable supports.

Unless I’m reading this too optimistically, it seems like recovering the resin just requires adding more of the original solvent, which sounds pretty good (as long as that solvent isn’t much nastier than a regular resin solvent).

Maybe, but your examples aren’t repeatedly wetted and dried. Could the repeated cycles cause the particles to move deeper?

The illustrations seem to indicate that stains and dead microbes accumulate in the middle of the wood, deep below the surface. It would be interesting to slice an old wood cutting board in half and see the accumulated stains!

The science on plain wood being safe has been around for quite a while. I remember reading a study many years ago where some scientists mashed bacteria all over the surface of a wood cutting board, rinsed it, dried it, and then tried everything they could to get the bacteria to transfer to fresh meat (including trying to pound the meat into the board with a mallet) and the meat remained uncontaminated. So, it seems like the safest option is a single unglued plank of wood.

Glue joints don’t act like wood, so presumably that makes bamboo act less like plain wood safety-wise.

The problem with plastic is that the knife marks can retain bacteria (which, unlike wood, the plastic doesn’t kill).

Did you see the pictures in the article showing how stains disappear?

The article discusses glue joints. Did you make it through the whole article?

Tangential on the broad face would mean it’s flat sawn (plain sawn). Like how woodworkers care about tangential vs radial shrinkage of wood species.

I ended up choosing a CMT 24T ITK (thin kerf) blade, which worked fantastically.

Why not a 24t for ripping?

I’ve seen his recommendation too but that’s another 2x price jump over the price range I’m already trying to avoid!

I was misremembering because my block plane blade has multiple notches like this example. My larger planes don’t. Example blade: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/117808-o1-stanley-block-plane-blades-made-by-veritas?item=05P3173

Does the blade have multiple notches to allow adjustment as you sharpen it? Are you using the notch that makes the blade shortest?

Yes, thanks! I have clamped one piece to guide my router before, but using two would be much easier since it eliminates the need to measure the offset to the “far” stop every time. Clever!

Can you elaborate on this a bit?

https://ibuildit.ca/projects/wooden-vise/ Cool!

Thanks. Interesting point that even a small bolt is going to be plenty strong for work-holding. So maybe just some all thread of appropriate length? I guess the problem there is the pitch is fine, so it would move very slowly.

Out of curiosity, when do you care about the jaw being flush with the workbench top?