https://www.reddit.com/r/linux_gaming/comments/1fprlsa/virtual_surround_sound_on_linux/

Pipewire spatializer. But it looks like you need a special wav file (“HRTF”?) for a specific headset, not sure where is best to source those.

Nothing at all. If things go south on the install I’ll have a clean slate. Really the only thing I have backed up are keys, everything else is nonessential.

There are no “surround sound” headphones (at least not since razer hp1), it’s a gimmick, any advertised as such are using a single driver per side and doing fake surround in software (driver).

You can use any headset and set up various virtual surround programs in Linux, you might want to look into details of that before buying a headset.

You can probably assume if the headset wants to use some windows software or drivers to “set up” the surround sound that it won’t work on Linux the same way, but it is possible to do with other programs.

I don’t care about getting a game (though I don’t have either), but wanted to leave some gems:

Minishoot’ adventures

Project silverfish

Escape from duckov

Enter the gungeon

Creeper world series

I have to say, this situation has improved enough that I’ve had no problem using BT controller connection.

We’re talking about games like Elden Ring, Enter the Gungeon, MGS:Snake Eater Delta… and reaction time definitely matters for those games. One controller even came with a 2.4ghz 1000hz dongle, and it seems the new controller will probably have an option like that if the GabeGear has the hardware built into it: “Steam Controller’s wireless adapter is built right into Steam Machine for direct pairing.”

This is a strange argument to me. I just don’t get it.

So. You have the controller, advertised 35+h life on a single charge.

Unless you’re some sort of gaming machine, even a no-lifer sleeps.

We’ll do a crazy minimum, you sleep 4h a day. that’s 20h for gaming. You plug it in when you sleep, a time when no one will be using it and it can be “tethered”.

if it’s a straight line (it’s probably not) 20h/35h gets you down to 42% battery.

Even 2-3 years later, battery should be between 70-80% capacity. If the minimum after a full day of usage, from charged, is 42% from the 35h estimate, in your worn 70% capacity battery you’ve still got more than 15% spare between days, after accounting for years of degradation.

And then, after using it for 3 years, you might have to contemplate using the hated screwdriver and replacing the battery. And this is only if you’ve been no-life wrecking this controller for that long. It’ll be much better from “regular” gaming usage.

I think this just comes down to undisciplined people, who can’t manage to plug their stuff in routinely. I really can’t see any other logical reason to feel this way.

And even then, for the people who can’t do charging regularly, and don’t want to worry about being tethered to a charger/their machines, a $10 power bank from a gas station fixes this issue. I charge my controller from a phone charger, already next to me, whenever it needs it. No one says that you have to explicitly plug it in to whatever you’re playing on.

Personally, I think even giving the option of using disposable batteries is irresponsible on the designer’s end. Everyone talks about rechargeables, but there’s still going to be a percentage of people who just use disposables.

This does make more sense for the frame controllers, as when they die, there’s no good/safe way you can still use them, and have them plugged in. even with a power bank the cables are, at best, ungainly, and at worst, an active safety hazard, as you swing them around you while not being able to see them. I’ve tried using index controllers wired to a power bank I was carrying, and it wasn’t good.