does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C?

That depends entirely on the result you get and the Filament you use. Also, keep in mind that whatever you set your bed temperature to and what the printer reports, very likely isn’t what you actually print on. For example, on my Ender 5 Plus, I have a glass bed and had to set my printer to 75°C while on my Voron 2.4, I can simply set it to 66°C and get the surface temperature to around 60°C.

which means that you need to measure the temperature on the surface of the printer and not rely on what the printer is reporting (unless you actually measured the temperature and can guess the actual temperature). The more mass that the print has to heat up, the longer it will take for the print surface to actually reach that temperature.

Personally, I aim for around 60-65°C for the print surface for PLA. I always had good adhesion for my prints at that temperature.

As someone who got the “Kit” version, I must add something that drove me nuts.

The Voron Documentation is extremely good, while I had some instances in which I would have liked more detail, the instructions are easy to follow.

However, the LDO documentation is abysmal and missing quite a bit of stuff. They do have a wiki that lists things to skip but the replacement instructions are very short and barely understandable. They don’t even mention things that you might need to print in addition to what the Voron needs. A specific example of this is the exhaust, the “Voron way” would be to print a cap that goes on the top at the back of the printer with a fan and a HEPA filter but the LDO kit doesn’t have that because it should come with the Nevermore filter. But this isn’t really mentioned there in the documentation and you need to dig through the wiki and the github project to find the right files for what needs to be printed.

I also had some trouble with the cables on the stepper motor that controls the X axis, they seem to be loose inside or don’t make full contact which means that, depending on the wires position, could make the stepper motor not work that well.

Lastly, I am currently building the Box Turtle AFC (automatic filament changer) System also from LDO and, from what I can find, there is absolutely NO documentation about it. I was in the beginning of ordering some TPU spools because the build instructions of the Box Turtle say that you need some before I saw that they provide those in the Kit.

With that being said, would I source the stuff all by myself? Hell no.

I looked a bit in the names of the Studio, Director and Writer to see what they previously did and what sort of scores those things got on MAL.

• Science Saru
  • Dandadan (8.50)
  • Dandadan 2nd Season (8.46)
  • Yojouhan Time Machine Blues (8.18)
• Mokochan
  • Dandadan (8.50)
  • Yojouhan Time Machine Blues (8.18)
  • Heike Monogatari (7.79)
• Toh Enjo
  • Space☆Dandy 2nd Season (8.26)
  • Space☆Dandy (7.89)
  • Shisha no Teikoku (6.84)
• Shuhei Handa
  • Dungeon Meshi (8.60)
  • Gintama Movie 1: Shinyaku Benizakura-hen (8.52)
  • One Punch Man (8.48)

Looks like a pretty good score spread over those with only “Shisha no Teikoku” getting a below 7 rating, the rest everything above or close to 8. With Shuhei Handa in the Position of which we got “Dungeon Meshi” and “One Punch Man”, this looks really promising

the actual problem here is that OPs network is not configured correctly and that Plex detects that the physical local client is actually accessing the server from a totally other network.

Fairly common when you use docker to run Plex and have the container run in bridge mode. This will put the container in the docker network that will then be different to your local network.

Plex determines if a stream is local or remote based on the network so when your container is in bridge mode, the physical local client will be a remote connection because of the different networks.

And since remote streaming requires Plex pass since end of April, you will see this.

LAN networks is only available for plex pass users

It was definitely worth it for me.

I previously had a Ender 3v2 and an Ender 5 Plus and the E5P had constant issues in which I tried to upgrade it step by step to address those issues. However, never really could fix all of them. The last issues I just gave up on was the bed. While it worked fine, I never really could get a good first layer on the bed, when I calibrated the Z-offset correctly on one side, it wasn’t good on the other side because the nozzle was too far away from the bed. I rarely could get the bed mesh range under 0.4mm which was quite annoying. But smaller prints, it printed well.

Last year in October, I decided to build a Voron and got the 2.4 LDO kit for 350mm. Took a bit of time to get it all assembled and some hiccups here and there but since it is up and running there is really only one issue that I haven’t quite figured out yet (the A motor sometimes doesn’t want to turn, after re-plugging the cable and restarting, it works without issues).

But I could print PLA, ABS and ABS-GF on it so far. I am also currently building the Armor Turtle AFC (filament changer) for it.

But 770€ for a 250mm V2.4 sounds very low to me so I would assume that it is 2nd hand. This could be fine but keep in mind that the printer also could have issues, issues you might not know about where they would be coming from because you simply bought the machine as a whole. So, identifying the problem could be a bit annoying.

Other than that, I am really happy with mine, I usually get 0.1mm difference in the bed mesh range (running a voron tap as probe), the print speed is great (but I also didn’t optimise it and just used the speed settings from the default profile in Orca Slicer)

It doesn’t, even when you share the Server, your users will be able to stream remotely.

relaible!!! I want to start a print and return once it is done. Not worrying about print failures

Well, any printer will do that if you calibrate it well enough. I have seen many people not doing anything in that regard and complaining that they can’t get anything to print.

However, getting to that calibration can be easier or more involved.

Works with a good slicer. Back in the day I used PrusaSlicer with UV-tools to convert it to Anycubic fileformat.

I only used PrusaSlicer for FDM prints; for resin, I use Chitubox or, more often, Lychee Slicer. “Good” is fairly ambiguous here because what would a “good” slicer look like to you? Either of the ones I mentioned would be good and are fairly popular.

resin vat mixing (vat tilting is good enough) to prevent resins from seperating during long prints

I don’t think that most consumer resin printers have this sort of feature. The Lift and retract of the built plate should be enough to keep the resin well-mixed and any resin that is separating because of that wouldn’t be something that I would consider buying again anyway. Funnily enough, since you mentioned Anycubic Resin, this was specifically my experience with it that it easily separated. Never had this problem with other manufacturers like Elegoo or Sunlu.

at least two washing containers (first stage dirty IPA, second stage “clean” IPA)

This would be hard to get “out of the box”, but you might be able to get a replacement container for the wash station separately (at least that is what I did).

I noticed none of the printers have magnetic/spring metal build platforms. Are they outdated/no longer required?

This is mostly an upgrade that you can do to add a magnetic sheet on which you then can add this flexible built plate. This is still around like WhamBam Flex plates. I used that on two of my printers but never bothered to do that on my current printer because with the right raft and bottom exposure settings there isn’t much need to do that, also it is messier.

cleaning liquid: Is isopropanol alcohol (IPA) still the goto?

Pretty much for any “normal” resin. Water-washable resin has gotten more popular but the majority is still cleaned with more aggressive solvents like IPA.

Cure and Wash? No idea. all the solutions I have looked at seem to be still similar to the old anycubic cure and wash. The Prusa CW1 on the other hand looks like a well-thought-out solution.

I think this should be answered based on what printer you choose in the end. My first Printer was an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro with a combo wash and cure box from Anycubic. I always had to remove the models from the built plate before washing them, which made a mess and I used so many paper towels to clean that up.

With my Saturn 4 Ultra, I can just take the built plate and put it into the Wash bucket and let both the built plate and the models get clean which is so much more convenient and I have less of a mess to clean up because it is just IPA that I have to wipe up and not Resin and then clean the surface with IPA again and wipe that up too.

As for the Printer, I am pretty happy with my Saturn 4 Ultra at the moment. It is affordable and I could quickly get it to print because of the Auto levelling feature (which isn’t really auto levelling) and the integrated exposure test which is much faster than what UVTools would generate. The VAT tilt is a bit dangerous because of a potential resin leak of the release film, leaking into your printer’s internals, but it will speed up the printing process quite a bit.

The other features like the camera weren’t that interesting to me but the 16K version has, for example, a light (which the first gen was missing) so you would also be able to check the printer in a dark environment. On the other hand, the AI detection for print failures is still something I would consider a gimmick because it would only do that from one side, the side facing the camera. A failure on any other side would not be detected.

Unfortunately, I also don’t have any other experience with other brands or printers, I only ever had Elegoo printers from the Mars 2 Pro, the Original Saturn and now the Saturn 4 Ultra and was fairly happy with all of them in what they brought me.

I would disagree with the last sentence.

Astrobot was actually a game. It was more like any other game that taught you how to play the game with the implemented features. This could have been any other game doing the same thing but it came directly from Sony.

Looking at the “Welcome Tour gameplay” video, this isn’t even close to what Astrobot did. It is a Hub in which you get told what those features are with minigames for that specific feature.

My point is: If the only point is to advertise the functionality of the console, charging any sort of money for it is not productive for what it should be achieving. You want people to learn how to use your console and then charge money for it will do the exact opposite. People won’t buy it because there is no benefit to actually buying it.

Any other game would teach you how to play it anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJoAaOClzrY

Some other perspective here…

I think that this information would be possible to highlight, you could, for example, have an announcement channel that is read only for the regular users.

However, that doesn’t mean that this will reduce the number of questions though.

Even discord has a search function, granted it is not great but still, if you are willing to search for something you would be able to find it.

But this is the problem. For your regular users, it is much easier to simply ask that redundant question again and again instead of doing the least amount of searching yourself.

Heck, I had questions in some communities in which I copied the question in the title and searched on Google for it and got an answer in the first result.

What I want to say with this is that those redundant questions will be asked regardless of the platform.

What I think is worse about discord, especially as a help or support platform, is that it is a walled garden. All the knowledge accumulated there is locked away and cannot be found unless you are on discord and search for it. At least on reddit or Lemmy, you can still find the answer for something if you are looking for it.

I think that discord can work as a platform but only to a number of users. I have such a thing for a plugin that I am maintaining but there are not even 30 people on there. But I also give direct support and figure out issues that are either because the user did something wrong or it is an issue with the plugin. If it is a reaccuring problem I put that in the wiki or the FAQ otherwise, it is a bug report as a new issue so that the information are something you could find.

Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.

As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)

Nicht “Drachenball” aber ein andere “Übersetzung” die mich nicht los lässt.

Original Titel “You Were Never Really Here” von 2017, hierzulande ist er dann mit dem Titel “A Beautiful Day” erschienen. Nach der Filmbeschreibung, passt der Titel “A Beautiful Day” nicht so wirklich und wenn dann schon ein englischer Titel verwendet wird, wieso dann nicht den Originalen?

I also found the “Do Not Mistake My Silence For Lack Of Grief.” Quote very fitting. Just because you are not showing it doesn’t mean it doesn’t affect you.